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Technical Secretariat & Governance

The Technical Secretariat (TS) was the guiding body that developed the PEF Category Rules (PEFCR) for the apparel and footwear industry. It consisted of various stakeholders, including brands representing about 50% of the European market’s turnover, representatives from the fibre and textile sectors, NGOs, scientific experts, and governments, to include a variety of considerations in the decision-making process.

From December 2019 until April 2025, the Technical Secretariat developed robust, science-based calculation rules detailing the PEF methodology for
13 apparel and footwear product subcategories.

To ensure transparency and validate its work:
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The TS was observed by the European Commission, the European Environmental Bureau (EEB) and the Dutch Ministry of Intrastructure and Water Management

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The PEFCR was opened for two public consultations

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The PEFCR underwent numerous independent expert reviews

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Independent experts also reviewed 39 supporting studies

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Decisions were mainly taken by consensus, and voting sessions organised when necessary

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In April 2025, the TS approved the final PEFCR with a qualified majority

The Technical Secretariat members shared the common objective of consistent and science-based rules to facilitate future product comparisons

Members of the Technical Secretariat:
26 members

Technical Secretariat coordinator
Voting members
Non-voting members
Technical Lead
Observers
Technical Lead
Observers

Funding Agreements

Timeline and actions — an iterative process

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2019

The apparel and footwear project was selected by the European Commission and the TS established

March 2020

Technical Secretariat kick-off

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Summer of 2021

1st public consultation: 996 comments were integrated and/or answered

2023 Supporting studies

Testing phase of the PEFCR on real products by companies

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WHO_TL_3

2024

2nd public consultation: 5’119 comments were integrated and/or answered

March 2025

The Technical Advisory Board (TAB) and the EU sub-group (EU Member States) gave recommendations to the European Commission on the apparel and  footwear PEFCR

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WHO_TL_7

April 2025

The TS voted to approve the final apparel and footwear PEFCR, concluding five years of work

May 2025

The European Commission gave the green light on the apparel and footwear PEFCR, which can now be used for compliance with EU legislation requiring an assessment of products’ environmental footprints 

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2026

The European Commission will adopt a new recommendation on the use of EF methods and begin the release of a new EF database generation: the EF 4.0, starting a new PEFCR update cycle affecting the PEFCR apparel and footwear

2019

The apparel & footwear project is selected by the European Commission and the Technical Secretariat is established

March 2020

Technical Secretariat kick-off

Summer of 2021

Technical Secretariat kick-off

2022 Supporting studies

Technical Secretariat kick-off

2024*

2nd public consultation

2024

The Technical Advisory Board (TAB) and the EU sub-group (EU Member States) give recommendations to the European Commission on the apparel & footwear PEFCR

2025

The European Commission adopts the apparel & footwear PEFCR, which can be used for future legislation. Brands and the industry would have to use this common framework to assess the environmental footprint of their products

The Technical Secretariat developed the rules adhering to the the Commission’s 2021 Recommendation on the Use of Environmental Footprinting Methods 
BUT
The European Commission made the final decision to finalise the rules after two advisory bodies, the Technical Advisory Board and the Environmental Footprinting Steering Group, conducted a close scientific and political review

Support the PEFCR

Brands, suppliers, and civil society

Use the PEFCR and inform yourself about its application. If you have questions, you can contact us directly here

Policymakers or institutions

Share what is behind the apparel and footwear PEFCR methodology and highlight the added value for the industry.

Consumers

Make informed purchasing decisions and continue to encourage brands to increase their transparency

*Dates might change