Technical Secretariat & Governance
The Technical Secretariat (TS) was the guiding body that developed the PEF Category Rules (PEFCR) for the apparel and footwear industry. It consisted of various stakeholders, including brands representing about 50% of the European market’s turnover, representatives from the fibre and textile sectors, NGOs, scientific experts, and governments, to include a variety of considerations in the decision-making process.
From December 2019 until April 2025, the Technical Secretariat developed robust, science-based calculation rules detailing the PEF methodology for
13 apparel and footwear product subcategories.
To ensure transparency and validate its work:
The TS was observed by the European Commission, the European Environmental Bureau (EEB) and the Dutch Ministry of Intrastructure and Water Management
The PEFCR was opened for two public consultations
The PEFCR underwent numerous independent expert reviews
Independent experts also reviewed 39 supporting studies
Decisions were mainly taken by consensus, and voting sessions organised when necessary
In April 2025, the TS approved the final PEFCR with a qualified majority
The Technical Secretariat members shared the common objective of consistent and science-based rules to facilitate future product comparisons
Members of the Technical Secretariat:
26 members
Technical Secretariat coordinator
Voting members
Non-voting members
Technical Lead
Observers
Technical Lead
Observers
Funding Agreements
Timeline and actions — an iterative process
2019
The apparel and footwear project was selected by the European Commission and the TS established
March 2020
Technical Secretariat kick-off
Summer of 2021
1st public consultation: 996 comments were integrated and/or answered
2023 Supporting studies
Testing phase of the PEFCR on real products by companies
2024
2nd public consultation: 5’119 comments were integrated and/or answered
March 2025
The Technical Advisory Board (TAB) and the EU sub-group (EU Member States) gave recommendations to the European Commission on the apparel and footwear PEFCR
April 2025
The TS voted to approve the final apparel and footwear PEFCR, concluding five years of work
May 2025
The European Commission gave the green light on the apparel and footwear PEFCR, which can now be used for compliance with EU legislation requiring an assessment of products’ environmental footprints
2026
The European Commission will adopt a new recommendation on the use of EF methods and begin the release of a new EF database generation: the EF 4.0, starting a new PEFCR update cycle affecting the PEFCR apparel and footwear
2019
The apparel & footwear project is selected by the European Commission and the Technical Secretariat is established
March 2020
Technical Secretariat kick-off
Summer of 2021
Technical Secretariat kick-off
2022 Supporting studies
Technical Secretariat kick-off
2024*
2nd public consultation
2024
The Technical Advisory Board (TAB) and the EU sub-group (EU Member States) give recommendations to the European Commission on the apparel & footwear PEFCR
2025
The European Commission adopts the apparel & footwear PEFCR, which can be used for future legislation. Brands and the industry would have to use this common framework to assess the environmental footprint of their products
The Technical Secretariat developed the rules adhering to the the Commission’s 2021 Recommendation on the Use of Environmental Footprinting Methods
BUT
The European Commission made the final decision to finalise the rules after two advisory bodies, the Technical Advisory Board and the Environmental Footprinting Steering Group, conducted a close scientific and political review
Support the PEFCR
Brands, suppliers, and civil society
Use the PEFCR and inform yourself about its application. If you have questions, you can contact us directly here
Policymakers or institutions
Share what is behind the apparel and footwear PEFCR methodology and highlight the added value for the industry.
Consumers
Make informed purchasing decisions and continue to encourage brands to increase their transparency
